Day 10 and 11, August 2 and 3 On the Ferry

This is about as stressful as it gets.
Fly in to Ketchikan commercial and take a boat or airplane taxi.

As I mentioned, we have talks in the observation lounge. This is a Coast Guard Captain talking about his assignment of patrolling the Bering Sea.

It seems like you are in a foreign country, but there are reminders.
 
Another version of riding off into the sunset.
 
Petersburg in the background. Tina and Jay will recognize the "Mortwear."
 
All of Tommy Josephs works are commissioned. This is his current design.
 
And, he still has a lot of work to do. I was able to get a 30 second video of the two of them working. It is amazing what he can do with that adze.
 
I was happy not to be buying gas today as it was $3.45 in Ketchikan and $4.00 in Wrangell. Tomorrow, I leave the ferry at 6 am to ride to Whitehorse. Back to Skagway on Sunday to take another narrow gauge train ride to the summit of a local peak. The soup on board this ship is as good as it gets. Clam chowder tonight.

Day 12, August 4 Skagway, Alaska to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory

There were some amazing sights on the ride to Whitehorse. This is Emerald Lake and the photo doesn't do it justice.
 
My hotel is behind the street clock with the red fascia and row of lights. Notice the time of night.
 
What do salmon do when man builds a dam in the way of his reproduction instincts?
 
They use the lock system designed to lift them over the dam.


Hard to believe there were about 250 of these on the Yukon during the Gold Rush years. It took 36 hours to reach Dawson City, with the current, and four to five days to return, against the current. A cord of wood per hour to supply the steam.

 
I filled up in Skagway this morning before leaving for Whitehorse; $3.64. The temp was mid-fifties. So far I have been lucky to miss the rain. Looking at the clouds ahead, I thought my luck had run out. It turns out that the temperature dropped into the forties and the clouds dropped down on the highway, but the rain stayed put. Miraculously, the clouds dissipated almost immediately after crossing White Pass (3300 ft.) and the temperature climbed into the sixties.
Whitehorse was/is a gemstone in the crown of the Yukon. I was very impressed. It is clean, well laid out, modern tastefully integrated with rustic, and the people were very friendly. I checked into the hotel (two floor walkup) and headed for the fish ladder. The fish ladder is the world’s longest and its purpose is to move salmon upstream past a dam. I never thought about how salmon would get back to their spawning grounds if someone erected a dam. Apparently, the fish lobby got the attention of the river engineers and they built a series of locks that lift the fish in stages. It is not highly technical, but it is very functional.
My next stop was at the Klondike for a tour of a sternwheeler that supplied the growth and prosperity of Dawson City during the gold rush of 1898 to the early 1900s. The Klondike continued to make the run to Dawson City until 1955, the last paddle wheeler to steam the Yukon River.
After a tour of the visitor’s center and a film about the Yukon, I returned to the hotel for a much needed rest before attending some local entertainment, The Frantic Follies. It was a hoot, with music, comedy, skits, dancing, and all around good fun. They acted out some of the poems of Robert Service the poet laureate of Alaska in his time, circa 1900-1930. They did “The Cremation of Sam McGrew,” and “The Ballad of the Ice Worm Cocktail.” Hilarious.
On my way out of town I stopped at the Beringia Interpretive Center to get a little more understanding of what life was like in the Yukon 30,000 years ago. Fascinating…more at
http://www.beringia.com/01/01maina.html

Day 13, August 6 Whitehorse, Yukon Territory to Skagway, Alaska

 
 
It was cold and windy, but still beautiful.


I missed the Welcome to Canada sign on the northbound leg.

My B&B, The Whitehouse.
George W. was tied up in a press conference, but Laura served coffee.

 

The White Pass and Yukon Route,
built to support the gold rush at Dawson City.

 

Completely updated equipment.

 

This is the White Pass Trail established in 1898. Not to be confused with the Chilkoot Trail, this would accommodate pack animals and was less demanding. It was a toll trail and it is reported that operators collected $1,000 a day. Better than working a dinky claim, eh?
 

This was the trestle of the original infrastructure.
 

I made the return trip from Whitehorse to Skagway on a cold and windy day. I brought my best winter gloves for just such a day and left them at the B&B in Skagway. So much for good planning. The day turned out to be decent. I took another ride on another narrow gauge railroad from sea level to almost 3000 feet, the summit of White Pass. The scenery, procedures, and equipment were quite different from the railroad in New Mexico.
The B&B dates back to 1902 and much of the original flavor has been preserved. However, it has been completely updated and is ultra modern and comfortable. I don’t stay in B&Bs often so I don’t know how $135 compares, but with Motel 6, it is a little spendy.
Today, there is no sun. The clouds are so low they block the mountains on either side of the valley here in Skagway. I am just hoping the rain holds off until I get on the ferry this afternoon. The ferry ride should be interesting as I met four fellow cyclists on the train who have been touring Alaska for the past sixteen days. They will ride back to Bellingham on The Columbia with me.

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